Originally we intended to
make our way in stages from El Hierro, the most southwesterly island in the
Canaries Archipelago, back through the other islands to Lanzarote, the most
northeasterly island – as we did in 2014.
From there we hoped to leave by the beginning of May and sail back to
Lagos in Portugal. Our objectives in
going to Lanzarote were to minimise the final distance to sail against the wind
in open ocean on our return passage to Lagos and to improve the angle at which
we could sail against a prevailing northeasterly wind.
 |
| El Hierro to Lanzarote (2014) |
Even
so, we anticipated that we’d end up having another difficult sail north against
the strong northerly winds that prevail in the Canaries sea area at this time
of year. Two years ago it took nine
days to tack north, against the wind, to Lagos – as compared with the four and
a half day downwind sleighrides we have enjoyed on each of our last two
passages south from Portugal.
 |
| Lanzarote to Lagos (2014) |
Throughout
April we had carefully studied the weather forecasts in the hope that an
Atlantic low would develop and, more importantly, pass east between Madeira and
the Canaries, which would give us the opportunity to leave in a southerly wind.
A
low did actually develop while we were in El Hierro and, to our surprise and
joy, it began to move in the direction we needed rather than further north to
Portugal as is the norm.
 |
| Weather
chart showing a favourable
low coming in from the west
that would give southerly and then westerly winds
during the first few days of our passage north from the Canaries
|
Within
12 hours the wind had changed to the south and we therefore left El Hierro
immediately, heading north, initially on a 60-mile passage to Santa Cruz, the
capital of La Palma. The marina there
is located adjacent to the city centre and we were able very easily and quickly
to provision in the town and fill up with fuel and water on the reception pontoon.
 | |
| Leaving El Hierro at dawn |
 |
| Loading
provisions purchased in Santa Cruz, having just filled up with diesel.
(Note the ultra-empty marina – see Blog 7!)
|
After
a two-hour stop in Santa Cruz, La Palma, we continued sailing north for the next two days
as our yacht-friendly low passed through our sailing area and before the
prevailing northeasterlies set in again.
It was sufficient time, however, to get far enough from the Canaries to
allow us to keep pushing north.
 |
| Sailing with the boat’s three principal sails up (genoa, main and mizzen) |
 |
| Our towed water generator enjoyed being used in the open ocean to create electricity (at 6 amps per hour – for 24 hours a day)! We don’t use it when coastal cruising because of the danger of snagging the generator’s line and torpedo on the seabed |
To begin with,
it could not have been easier. Good weather, a fresh SSW wind and a one-metre
favourable swell. Even when, after two
days (as forecast), the low passed through and the wind turned NE, it was only
a F4, unlike the stronger northerlies that prevail closer to the Canaries. Its direction was such, however, that we
could not lay a course to Lagos so we decided that we would sail to and stop
off in Madeira until the wind backed to at least north.
 |
| Helen proofreading an eBook on passage |
MADEIRA
Once
we were confident that we could get to Madeira, we used our satellite phone to
communicate with Funchal Marina to request a berth. They confirmed in “marina speak”
– “we can just squeeze you in” – that they had plenty of room.
 |
| Island Drifter on the wall in Funchal marina with the city in the background. The Cathedral can just be seen aft of the mizzen mast! |
 |
| The Catedral do Funchal was built at the end of the 15th Century. It boasts a ceiling made of Madeira woods and is considered to be one of the most beautiful of all Portuguese cathedrals |
Funchal
Marina always had a reputation for being overcrowded and difficult, if not
impossible, for transiting yachts to get into. With the opening during the last
ten years of three new marinas on the island, one right next door to Funchal
marina itself, that situation has changed – partly, at least, at the expense of
the city’s traditional anchorage in the harbour.
Photograph
of Funchal harbour seen from the city before the addition of the new marina.
The photo clearly shows the city’s many traditional terracotta-roofed white
buildings
 |
| Funchal’s
two marinas as seen from
the Parque Santa Catarina to the west
|
Today,
the harbour caters primarily for the lucrative cruise-ship trade. Commercial and
ferry traffic has been taken over by the old whaling port of Canical at the
southeast end of Madeira. That port and
its container facilities have been significantly expanded to cope with the
traffic. Completion of a two-lane
tunnel to the port as part of the island’s Via Rapida (expressway) has
dramatically improved access to Funchal, from where roads radiate throughout
the island.
 |
| Canical
port which now deals with all of Madeira’s
commercial and ferry traffic
|
More
controversially, Funchal’s boatyard has been closed down. Its business appears to have moved to two
dedicated boatyards: Água de Pena in Santa Catarina and Linha Sextante to the west of
Funchal. The former is thought to be
unique in that its extensive hardstanding lies beneath Madeira’s extended
international airport runway. (The
airport, incidentally, copes with fifteen flights a day just to Lisbon.)
 |
| The ‘new’, extended airport runway under which a boatyard has been constructed |
 |
| Tiny harbour and large boatyard at Água de Pena under the airport runway – as seen from Island Drifter. In truth, the boatyard looked a bit empty |
We
stopped in Funchal, the capital, since it has a quality commercial area
adjacent to the marina, the city is old, picturesque, has “history”, and there
is plenty to do and see in terms of interesting buildings, museums and gardens.
It is also an excellent location from which to explore the rest of Madeira by
bus, tour coach or car now that the Via Rapida has opened up access along the
south coast.
 |
| Botanical
Gardens in Funchal which exhibit the
wide range of plants that can be found on
Madeira
|
 |
| Mike enjoying a beer at the Ritz (founded 1905) |
 |
| Photograph of tourists (not us!) ‘enjoying’ a ride in a Carreiro – a traditional sledge with a wicker basket carriage. The Carreiros were originally designed to carry freight down the frighteningly steep 5km hill between Monte and Funchal |
The
Madeira archipelago consists of the principal island of Madeira Grande (to use
its proper name), Porto Santo (the only other inhabited island in the group),
the nearby Ilhas Desertas (Desert Islands) and the tiny remote Ilhas Selvagems
(Savage Islands).
 |
| Chart of Madeira Archipelago |
We’ve
visited Porto Santo twice before. The
first time was in 1998 when we were deliverimg a Dufour 37 yacht from La
Rochelle to Club Sail, a sailing school and charter business that still
operates in the Canaries. The second
visit was in Island Drifter, on our first Atlantic Circuit in 1999.
The
enormous NATO-constructed harbour in Porto Santo is now principally used as a
ferry and commercial port. It is located in a well-protected bay that
encompasses almost the whole of the south of the island. Visiting yachts have always been welcome to
stay there on the wall, on a buoy in the harbour itself or in the small
well-sheltered marina. Anchoring in the harbour is not allowed.
 |
| Porto
Santo’s enormous NATO-constructed
harbour in which yachts can stay
|
Porto
Santo, unlike Madeira, is arid with little vegetation following defoliation by
early settlers and goats. The island’s
principal feature and attraction for visitors is its enormous, superb golden
sandy beach – the equal of anything the Caribbean can offer except perhaps
water temperature. The beach and
adjacent facilities are used at weekend by the Madeira Grande population since
it can be easily reached by ferry. Many private holiday homes, hotels and
tourist accommodation have been developed along the south coast during the last
fifteen years.
 |
The
5-mile golden sandy beach at Porto Santo which has traditionally been used by
the Madeiran Grande population at weekends and is now becoming a major tourist
location in its own right
|
The
Selvagem Islands lie 150 miles south, halfway between the Canaries and Madeira.
We have passed them before and did so again on this passage, albeit it was dark
at the time and we could only see the loom of its lighthouse. The Selvagems consist of three small islands
with associated islets and rocks, in two main groups some ten miles apart. They have for some time been a nature and a
marine reserve on which two wardens live in rotation. Yachts can anchor in the authorised anchorages and visit the
islands providing they have a special permit obtainable only in Funchal. Most cruisers don’t actually bother to call
in.
 |
| Screen shots from the chart plotter of the two groupings of islands in the Ilhas Selvagems: Selvagem Grande and Selvagem Pequena |
The
three islands that comprise the Ilhas Desertas lie ten miles SSE of the east
tip of Madeira Grande and form a low broken ridge twelve miles long but less
than a mile wide, fringed by rocky cliffs with offlying hazards. The islands have no fresh water and have
therefore never had permanent inhabitants.
Since 1990 they have also become a protected nature and marine
reserve. Again, yachts can stop in the
designated anchorage and visit parts of the islands – with prior permission.
 |
| Chart of Ilhas Desertas – a deserted (rather than desert) group of islands which has never been inhabited due to the complete lack of water |
 |
| Ilhas
Desertas seen in silhouette as we approached Madeira |
Madeira
Grande itself is by far the largest island in the archipelago. It is 57 miles
long and nearly half as wide. Unlike
the other islands in the Macaronesian chain, it has not suffered from any
volcanic eruptions since the islands were “discovered” and colonised by the
Portuguese in 1419.
 |
| Chart
of Madeira Grande
with locations referred to in this Blog
|
The
archipelago is an autonomous region of Portugal, with its own elected
government with wide-ranging executive and legislative powers. As a full member of the EU, Madeira has
benefited considerably over the last fifteen years from EU aid, primarily in
respect of its infrastructure.
 |
| The Palácio de São Lourenco constructed in the 16th century. Following the establishment of the Autonomous Regional Government in 1976, it became the official residence of the Minister of the Republic of Madeira |
While
still undecided regarding the forthcoming referendum in the UK, we are
nevertheless impressed by the effect EU support has had in both Madeira and the
Canaries. We are also conscious that Europe as such has lived in relative peace
since 1945. Having said that, we both
dislike the bureaucratic manner in which the EU is run. However, enough of politics…
The
local population in Madeira is estimated at 275,000 inhabitants plus an
unquantified number of Northern Europe incomers. The majority of the local
inhabitants are employed in the service sector, principally in tourism which
today is the island’s major source of income. For over 150 years Madeira has
catered for wealthy American and European tourists. Tourism has, however, only significantly expanded since 1997 when
EU financial support was made available to improve the country’s
infrastructure. Until then, it is
said, many local people had not even visited Funchal – let alone Portugal.
 |
Reid’s
Hotel which opened in 1890 is the last word in understated luxury. Its guest list includes Winston Churchill,
George Bernard Shaw and members of various Royal families
|
A fifth of the population is still employed in the traditional industries of agriculture, viniculture and fishing. Embroidery and basketwork also continue, albeit as niche industries.
 |
| Funchal market displaying the wide range and high quality of fruit and vegetables grown on the island |
 |
| Madeira wine – one of the archipelago’s best-known products around the world. The British contributed significantly to the creation, development and subsequent growth of the Madeira wine industry |
No
blog would be complete without reference to the ubiquitous C.C. Christopher Columbus (who else?) lived for a
while in both Madeira Grande and Porto Santo where he is supposed to have been
a successful sugar trader before becoming a sailor, navigator and explorer. He
even married the granddaughter of a local dignatory. He is also credited with being a major influence in the sale,
distribution and popularity of Madeiran wine.
 |
| Statue of Christopher Columbus in Parque Santa Catarina. In the background is the Chapel of Santa Catarina which is over 400 years old |
The
volcanic peaks that form the island rise precipitiously out of deep water,
often as almost vertical sea cliffs.
Although many of Madeira’s mountain tops reach 1500 metres, there are no
individual giants as, for instance, in the Azores and the Canaries. Its massive form as a whole, however,
dictates the island’s climate. The
north coast and highlands have in consequence very “generous” rainfall, while the
south lies in a rain shadow protected from the northerly winds.
 |
| Most of
Madeira’s coastline has vertical
sea cliffs that rise steeply from the ocean
|
 |
| Photo of Curral das Freiras, located in the crater of one of the many high volcanoes that make up the centre of Madeira |
The
island’s plentiful supply of water and its management thereof have created rich
volcanic soil; that and the mild climate ensure that both natural and
cultivated trees, shrubs, vegetables and flowers thrive at different altitudes.
The net effect is that the island looks greener than many of the others in the
Macaronesian chain. As a consequence many species of colourful birds and
flowers thrive in the environment. The
Portuguese originally used Madeira to acclimatise tropical plants and trees
before introducing them into Europe.
 |
| Strelizia, also known as the Bird of Paradise flower, grows prolifically in Madeira, as do many other colourful species |
On
our third day in Funchal we could see that the forecast was subtly changing. Stronger northerly winds were beginning to
be forecast for a week ahead. Given our other commitments and plans, we decided
to leave as soon as possible to avoid getting stuck in Madeira or beaten up at
sea – much as it grieved us since we really wanted to explore more of the
island outside Funchal. However, since
we had never planned to call in there at all, our three days were an unexpected
bonus.
We
therefore retrieved our boat documents, which were being held as security by
the marina office, paid, fuelled up, watered and, with great regret, cancelled
the car that we’d booked (and paid for) to tour the island – then departed!
 |
| Sailing route from the Canary Islands to Portugal (2016) |
On
the way we hugged the southeast coast to Punta de Barlavento in order to see
and explore, at least superficially, some of the locations we had already
identified as worth visiting, in addition to the boatyard at Água de Pena and
the port at Canical – both referred to above.
The
well-indented bay of Machico was where the Portuguese landed in 1419. For a
while it was the capital of the eastern part of Madeira. Today, following the
extension of the Via Rapida, which crosses the upper valley on a massive
viaduct, development has reached the area with a vengeance.
 |
| Photo of Machico, Madeira’s first settlement. It was the spot where the Portuguese landed in 1419 |
 |
| Quinta do Lorde 267-berth marina which opened in 2002 on the east end of Madeira, south of the Barlavento peninsula, is now the landfall of choice for many visiting yachtsmen. A classic marina village development on an ambitious scale |
 |
| Baía da Abra, understood to be the best natural anchorage in Madeira, is located east of Quinta do Lorde marina |
Once
we began to move away from the island, we found that the wind was coming
directly from Lagos (where we wanted to go), making sailing in that direction
impossible. We therefore elected to
sail east towards Morocco rather than north further out into the Atlantic.
Indeed, we had to maintain this course for the next two days until the wind
backed first to the north and then northwest.
 |
| Our lightweight genoa proved invaluable in the light airs we encountered on this passage |
 |
| SID [Steering Island Drifter], our self-steering wind vane, was not happy in the light airs! He likes stronger winds. He is photographed in rest mode. We had to use the electronic autohelm instead |
 |
| Our wind generator was also unhappy as it needs at least 12 knots to create any power. It’s only really happy in a F6 when it can generate at least 15 amps an hour – more than adequate to run everything on board |
In light airs weather
information is as important as the awareness of forthcoming gales or storms
since one has to decide which way to go – and it takes much longer to reach
one’s destination if one gets it wrong. We relied on Navtex for short-range
forecasts, our friend and “Weather Guru” Captain Peter in Lagos for
interpretation of 2–3 day internet projections, and Metfax from our SSB for a
visual overview.
 |
Wind
doesn’t get much lighter than this – even so we still managed to keep going on
low revs with the ‘iron genny’, using a minimal amount of our precious fuel
thanks to the assistance of the lightweight genoa
|
 |
It isn't always rough out at sea, as this photo into the setting sun shows
|
 |
| Helen obtaining a Metfax through the SSB radio |
 |
| Captain Peter, our “Weather Guru” in Lagos – in party mode |
To
add to the challenges (which contrary to popular opinion don’t go away when one
goes to sea) we were also, when we left, in the middle of recruiting a new
tenant in Harrogate. Never easy. We had already had over 20 unsuitable
applicants (the norm) whom we’d weeded out by phone interview before we left
the Canaries, but we did not want to miss the right applicant as and when they
appeared – as they always do in the end.
Fortunately
our friend Lynn in the UK, retired headmistress and human dynamo, agreed to
take on the task of recruitment while we were at sea. Mike was particularly
impressed by her initial reaction that “it can’t be any more difficult than
preparing for an Ofsted inspection”!
 |
| Lynn celebrating her birthday with us in Norway in 2013 |
Meanwhile,
our long-suffering friend Kate in Harrogate has continued to deal with
day-to-day issues regarding our property, tenants and mail. We don’t know what we’d do without her or,
indeed, Salvina and Kaye who step in when needed.
 |
| Kate
and Helen enjoying a cuppa at
Henry’s allotment in Knaresborough
|
 |
| Henry, Sarah and Ruben |
These
days, with a small portable satellite phone for use when at sea and WIFI and a
smart phone on land, we at least know what’s going on and can deal with matters
as required.
 |
| Helen texting our position to Captain Peter on the satphone |
The
advantage of sailing in light airs, even if it is not in the actual direction
one wishes to go, is that life is more relaxed and pleasant. One can cook without careening around the
galley, sleep without falling out of the bunk, enjoy al fresco meals in the
cockpit and savour an evening sundowner without spilling it (we don’t run a dry
ship, merely a sober one!). While, when
off course, it can sometimes be frustrating, one learns to live with it,
knowing that at some point in the future the wind will change and you can alter
course towards your objective.
 |
| Helen working on our photos
while able to do so in calm conditions
|
 |
| Mike enjoying a sundowner |
 |
| Sleeping arrangements |
Although we enjoy sailing, the last 24 hours of a long passage can pass very slowly,
as one starts looking forward – in Mike’s case, to a large cold beer in a
marina bar (think ‘Ice Cold in Alex’ style – for those old enough to remember John
Mills’ classic film).
 |
| 100 miles to go – and on course! |
We
actually made good progress over the last 100 miles and were able to sail in a
straight line to Lagos thanks to a good breeze from the right direction and
flat seas, as by now we were in the lee of the Portuguese coast.
 |
| Chart plotter screen shot showing Island Drifter on track and closing with the Portuguese coast |
 |
| Using the staysail on the inner forestay to help keep the boat as close to wind and on track as possible |
As we pulled on to the
waiting pontoon at Lagos Marina we were met by a reception committee (of
friends) who then joined us for our final passage – all of 300 metres – to our
allocated berth. There we set about
celebrating in traditional style.
 |
| Meeting
up with the ‘reception committee’
on Lagos Marina’s waiting pontoon
|
 |
| Celebrating our return with friends |
We
have now moved into Ian and Sue’s super holiday apartment which we’ve rented from
them on each of our visits to Lagos over the last two years. We’ll be here in Lagos for nearly a month
while we decommission Island Drifter, get her lifted out onto the hard
in Sopromar boatyard and repair and service her as necessary. It’s a bit of a luxury living in the
apartment, but in reality it makes working on the boat a lot easier (at least
that’s what we tell ourselves!).
 |
| The square in front of the Church of San Antonio (the Golden Church), behind which we are living in Ian and Sue’s holiday apartment |
 |
| View
from the apartment over the outstanding 5-mile
Meia Praia beach fronting Lagos
|
 |
| During our first two days in Lagos our major task was to wash and dry all the sails before turning the dinghy into a bath to soak all the lines to get rid of the salt. As ever, the weather was excellent – hot and sunny with a bit of a breeze |
Our
flight back to the UK is booked for 27 May – just before the airlines increase
their prices to coincide with the schools’ half-term holidays! Our first port of call in the UK will be to see our granddaughter Emmy in London.
Having been in contact by FaceTime, we know she’s developed in leaps and bounds
since we last saw her in January.
 |
| Our granddaughter Emmy standing unsupported for the first time. She was so busy putting on Lesley’s sunglasses that she forgot to fall over! |
This is our last Blog in this series. Thanks as ever to those of you who have communicated with us on the
Blog itself or by email. It’s much
appreciated and is helpful. Thanks also
to the silent majority who follow the Blog. It’s encouraging (and not a little
surprising) to see the number of “hits” that have accumulated.
Great account once again and we are looking forward to seeing you in Sunny Suffolk. Love to you both. xxx
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